Wednesday, November 20, 2024

Cotswold Way - Days 7 & 8

 Day 7


Woke up at 5.45, went down to the bar area for breakfast at 7. The landlady would not crack a smile despite my polite attempts at conversations. I gave up and ate in silence. Ate a cold breakfast of cereal and a full English veg and left at 8.17. Decided to take it easy. After one or two wrong turns but soon corrected myself. During one particular stretch, when I came back to the trail after taking a wrong turn, I reached a gate beyond which was a large herd of cows. Luckily for me, I saw a couple and we decided that we would cross the field together. They were walking the Cotswold Way in parts and they have walked it over two years, one day at a time. Not long after I came across a message box and left a little note in it. After a stone stile and a V-stile, I reached Cold Ashton. The shepherd's hut I was staying in was a bit off the track and I wondered about taking a bus but when I saw that the next one was not due for another two hours, I called Uber. The Portuguese driver took a wrong turn and I was charged more. I ordered some food from a supermarket and made myself pasta and salad for dinner.  Went to bed at 6.30 and was woken up a couple of hours later by fireworks. Bed linen smells of detergents. Tomorrow, I finish!

Old Sodbury to Cold Ashton
8.5 miles/13.5 kms
Stay at Shepherds Hut

Day 8


Woke up at 5.30. After breakfast and ablutions, called an Uber to take me back to the Parish hall where I finished yesterday. A black cat kept rubbing itself against my legs and I was worried that that was an ominous sign. Sikh woman Jas picked me up in her taxi at 7.30 and she was very surprised that I was walking on my own. Mother of three, she drove Uber taxis when her kids were in school. I began walking at 7.55 and quickly covered ground. Soon I walked past the site of Landsdown battle in the 17th century but otherwise, it was fairly unremarkable. But the last stretch on Dean Hill near Weston town seemed interminable. I looked at every church steeple and wondered if it was Bath cathedral. I walked through Weston and then up a steep stretch on Primrose Hill and through all of Bath city. Once in the city, signs were less obvious and I had to look for it on lamp posts and bollards. Every gold acorn (no more yellow acorns as this was Bath after all) I spotted was bringing me closer to the finish line and after the Royal Victoria park and the imposing Royal Crescent, I walked through crowds of busy tourists out on a sunny Saturday. One final turn left and I found myself standing in front of Bath Cathedral. And at its foot was the plaque that marked the end of the Cotswold Way. I was overwhelmed with gratitude for all the fickle set of circumstances that had made this adventure possible. I said my heartfelt thanks for my 104-mile expedition and began making my way back home. 



Cold Ashton to Bath
10 miles/16kms
Stay at home! 

Total distance - 104 miles/166kms

Monday, November 18, 2024

Cotswold Way - Days 5 & 6

 Day 5

I was up at 5.45 and after ablutions and breakfast of porridge (last night's posh dinner was a small portion), I was ready to leave by 7 when Ramu texted to say that he will be here for 9. When I stepped out of the hotel at 0850, I saw two familiar figures climb out of the car. The boys were here too! What fun! We stepped back into the hotel to breakfast and left around 10. After some typical arguments over the correct direction to take, we began walking and very soon, we were climbing. The directions at this point were very sketchy and some more arguments ensued. I was not about to complain as it made for such a welcome relief from walking on my own. Freed from carrying my bag, I just pointed this way and that as we fell into familiar patterns. My sons would alternate talking to Ramu and I and without the insidious distractions of a screen, we covered a lot of ground - from politics to sport to whether it was a discreet spot for a quick pee. 

I only wish they had brought some snacks with them as everyone grew quickly hungry and my own small stash was not enough to feed the mobs. At the end of a long sunken path with trees rising on both sides, we stopped to catch our breath on a bench in someone's garden and out came a lady who offered us tea and coffee. We accepted gratefully and resumed walking. There was some vociferous disagreements over whether or not to climb a small peak and I overruled any dissent and soon we were huffing and puffing our way up Cam peak. If we thought we were done with climbing, we were wrong as shortly after lunch at Dursley town, we climbed and climbed to reach yet another a golf course and not long thereafter arrived at Black Horse Inn which was to be my abode for the night. They served Indian food and after a quick shower and change we came came down for a big meal. The boys left by taxi to go back to Selsley where they'd left the car and I nodded off with a big grin on my face. Nothing could compare to today, I was sure. 


Selsley to North Nibley
13.5 miles or 21.5kms
Stay at Black Horse Inn


Day 6

Deepavali today. I called family and wished everyone before downing my customary porridge. Being mindful of the fact that I had to cover quite a bit of ground today, I left at 7.17 and soon began climbing. I was treated to some glorious views from above. I walked through fields and more fields, some of them through lovely countryside. At the next village, I stopped to get myself a coffee - my second this year! - and a banana. Later that afternoon, I was being overtaken by a lady who said that she had spotted me earlier. We walked and talked for a little while. There were gurgling streams that ran alongside the path which was really very pretty. Soon I came across two old friends who corrected me and set me on the right path. But not long thereafter there was a very long unmarked stretch and I walked back the way I came to check and took a detour before finally reconciling myself to the first route. I arrived at the Dog Inn with still some miles in the bag. After my second bath of the week to soak my tired limbs, I ordered a delicious roast veg tart with new potatoes and salad, brought it back to my room and ate it watching TV and fell asleep to dreams of Deepavalis past. 

Woke up several times in the middle of the night with cramping calves, then realised that it was actually hunger pangs. Had some porridge and promptly fell back asleep. 

I had just two days left on this trip! Do I break my promise to myself and start celebrating too soon?



North Nibley to Old Sodbury
15 miles or 24 kms
Stay at Dog Inn

Sunday, November 17, 2024

Cotswold Way - Days 3 & 4

 Day 3



After a porridge breakfast in the room, I left at eight quickly climbing Cleve Hill and its winding paths realising just how easy it would have been for me to get lost in the dark last night. I had to keep consulting google maps to ensure I was following the right path and before I knew it. I had covered a couple of maps in the guide book and I was starting to celebrate too soon (never ever do that). I kept pushing my lunch hour until I found a nice spot and soon found one on Charlton Kings Common with beautiful views. Soon I came to a junction where I could follow one of two ways. Google pointed me one way and the signs on the route another. I followed the signs and at Crikley Hill Country Park cafe I had a gnawing feeling that I had missed the turning. One of the rules I had made up for this trip was that when I had had enough, I would not hesitate to call a taxi to take me to my hotel. Just as well I am not in the plateaus of Tibet! My Uber arrived within 10 minutes and took me to my hotel. I was only half-a-mile or so short so it was alright. For the first time in 17 years I filled up the bath and lay in it and soaked my tired legs. Stepped out for battered halloumi, chips and peas for dinner. Early start tomorrow!

Clevehill to Birdlip
15.5 miles or 25.5kms
Stay at Royal George Hotel

Day 4


Day 4

Alarm at 5.45, hotel breakfast at 7 and checked out at 7.37. Brisk walk until signs pointed me to turn left but confronted me was a steep hill of trees* with the path hidden under a thick bed of leaves. I began climbing and soon a fell runner came skidding in the opposite direction telling me that what I was doing was much harder. I was dripping with sweat from the exertion when I reached the top but unsure which way to go, I turned left and found myself on a boggy path when all of a sudden, the fell runner came running back to check if I had dropped a key. I replied no and began squelching my way down the path. On a particularly slippery stretch, I lost my footing and ended flat on my back saved only by my backpack. I picked myself up gingerly and after a bit of a wobble found myself back on the trail. 

As I walked through a golf course, I turned my wrist to check the time only to find that my watch was gone. I called the hotel to check but it wasn't there. My trusty Timex must have slipped out sometime after the fall. Sadly no fell runner followed me this time to check if I had dropped it. 

A little while later, I arrived at a Trig point but found that there were loads of Fresian cows and not wishing to walk in their midst, I took another path and soon enough I was lost. A mother and her son who were out walking their dog pointed me in the right direction. She told me that she wasn't scared of cows and that once in Australia she had once herded 10,000 cows, 800 at a time. She had hung up her cowboy boots and was working as a PCSO these days. Presently I found the steps I had missed on the maps and began climbing it. Within a 100 metres, I went through a gate and a man coming the opposite way asked me which way I was headed and when I told him, he pointed me the right way. It turns out I should have descended the steps instead of climbing it. Ian is a retired insurance salesman who climbs and walks in his free time. His 60-something wife was climbing a wall in Bristol that day and he was out walking. "Your company made my walk more pleasant", he said, waving me off. I walked on but soon our paths crossed again and we walked amicably for a touch longer. I climbed over stone stiles and squeezed through squeeze stiles. I walked towards Selsley but got lost in the fields and had to be redirected more than once. I walked past a vineyard and at the next town I had one of two options for the route to take. I took the shorter route and promptly got lost again at which point I had been walking for eight hours and done my mileage for the day. Fed up, I sat by the roadside and called a cab. I arrived at the posh 16th century inn which was to be my abode for the night a short while later. I showered, changed and went down to the pub where I was the object of curiosity for a few locals. For the second time in two days I was asked by a man what my husband thought of my adventures. I replied I didn't know as I had not checked with him but the fact that we had remained married for as long as we have must mean he was supportive of it. I brought my delicious butternut squash rice back to my room and called it a night. 

Soon it will be Deepavali. Who knew I would be celebrating it with a walk on the wild side? 

Birdlip to Selsley
17 miles or 27 kms
Stay at Bell Inn

*Later I learnt that the steep hill I climbed is not far from the place where the annual cheese rolling competition is held. 

Please note: the collages above are a mix of both days 3 & 4 and not exclusively each day. 

Saturday, November 16, 2024

Cotswold Way - Days 1 & 2

 Day 1

I slept badly last night. Nerves kept me up. I had planned to take the 6.56 train but lay in for a bit deciding to take the next train which was due to leave an hour later. My anxiety was high and my stomach was twisting. After ablutions, I had a breakfast of porridge and left at 7.35. Just a few minutes into our ride to the station, I realised I had forgotten my poles behind and went back to pick it up. As I bid Ramu goodbye, I asked him if I would be alright. You have done it 6 or 7 times already, you will be fine, he said. I had to dash to catch my connecting train to Moreton-in-Marsh. A few minutes after I arrived, I boarded the bus to Chipping Campden. 

The card machine on the bus was not working, so I rode free. Loads of roadworks and diversions meant it was almost 45 minutes before I arrived at my destination for the start of this adventure. A quick ask around and I found the starting point. A circular plaque placed on the foot of the market hall with a line of poetry by TS Elliot would mark the beginning of a 102 mile journey on foot. It was a gentle walk, some easy climbs and some gentle slopes past a tower and some fields. Blue skies and stunning autumnal colours all the way. Stopped for soup and bread lunch at a pub in pretty Cotswold village of Broadway with some questionable items on the menu (local faggots?). Fell into conversation with Helen - a 50-something woman with a campervan who drives to a campsite by herself every other weekend, takes photos of insects (dragonfly is a favourite) and tries to identify them without the help of Google but using her big book of insects instead. Postcard pretty countryside. Found the Vine B&B. My room has a shower in the room but the loo is in the corridor. Had tea on arrival and porridge for dinner later. Hit the sack early.


Chipping Campden to Wood Stanway

Distance - 12.5 miles/20 kms

Stay: The Vine at Stanton


Day 2 

Met an American family of five - husband, wife and 3 daughters - from Oklahoma at breakfast which was not served till 8. They homeschooled their kids and led a gadget-free life. We sat chatting with the unmentionable American election looming large in the corner. The cooked breakfast was slow to come and by the time I left it was close to 9 and since the clocks had gone back an hour I wish I had left sooner. As I had come to predict, I began walking the wrong way before correcting myself. Some easy stretches in the morning and then some really steep climbs where I found myself repeatedly lost in fields. Then took a slight detour into an orchard to pick some apples that had fallen on the ground and was held up by a tractor rally. By the time I arrived at Winchcombe I was not hungry at all but for some reason, instead of carrying on walking, I stepped into a pub for a bite. The pie I wanted would take 45 minutes and so I asked for a salad instead. By the time it arrived and I had eaten it, it was 50 minutes since I sat down for lunch. Kicking myself for taking it easy and worried that it would be dark by the time I reached the hotel, I quickened my pace. As I began climbing I saw a man a bit further ahead dawdling. He had neither a bag nor a dog with him which made me queasy. Rather than climb ahead, he was pacing side-to-side which seemed a touch odd. There was no one else in sight and when I saw the man turn around to take notice of me, I instinctively  exaggerated my slowness. As I was on an incline, it wasn't so hard to be slow but sooner or later I would have to pass him, so I made a group call to my family but when it went unanswered, I sent them my live location. In the blink of an eye I did a mental calculation. If he wants my money or phone, I’d hand them over but if he were to assault me, I’d use the sharp ends of my poles to attack him, throw my bag at him and run down to the town I’d just left. He was bigger than me but relieved of the bag, I figured I can still get away quickly.

I recited my favourite line from Hanuman Chalisa* and kept walking. As I passed him, I said my usual hello while trying to keep my voice from shaking. Don’t mind me, he said, I’m injured. I brushed aside my instinct to offer help and quickened my stride to get away as quickly as possible. Once away, I checked to see where he was, he was much further back and quickly receding. Soon I met another lone woman walking the other way and I asked her if she knew if the local area was safe for women. I hope so, she replied and waved me on. I was angry and upset that the lecherous bastards who had molested me as a young woman walking along the streets of India had managed to reach beyond time and space to strike terror at my heart. I reminded myself that the walks I do are in defiance of what we have endured. That they will no longer hold power over me and that I refuse to be a victim of their perversions. As I walked on, it was starting to get dark and I walked through some woodlands, I began making a note of places I could stop and call for a taxi. I passed a B&B and soon I reached a field which warned me that there were horses roaming free. And sure enough, there were two horses by the gate blocking my way. Just as I was wondering where to go next, I turned to see a couple emerge from a path that was descending towards mine and they asked me if I needed help shooing the horse away. The man used my poles to jab the air in front of the horse and after a couple of attempts, they moved away but not very far. The wife told me that they would walk with me across the field but soon realised that they would have to walk past the horses again to get back on their actual trail. 

The man asked if it would be better for me to go with them to my hotel. I only had another half-an-hour's journey left but it was getting dark and I would have to step off the trail to get to my hotel. So I agreed instantly. Julian and his Czech-born wife Anna were spending some time with his mother in the Cotswold. We walked back the way I had just come and we had a wonderful conversation about everything and nothing really and before long we were at their car and they dropped me off at the hotel wishing me a safe rest of the journey. I ordered an Indian take away dinner and fell asleep shortly thereafter. I had just completed a quarter of the journey, what new adventures lay waiting for me?

*tum rakshak kahu ko darna - why fear when you are the protector?



Wood Stanway to Clevehill 
Distance - 11.5 miles/18.5 kms
Stay - Rising Sun Hotel, Clevehill

Saturday, December 23, 2023

Wooden Doll

This was my entry to this year's Mozhi translation prize. It did not make the longlist which means I am free to post it here. You can read the original story titled Marappachi by Uma Maheswari in Tamil here.

--


Appa, who went up looking for something in the attic came down holding something else in his hand. Dust from the past had settled a dull patina on him. His face had the tired grace of someone who’d tumbled over memories along with old things. Appa called out to Anu - he’d found a rare child-like moment within him that stood on the precipice of a rushed life threatening to break into pieces at any given moment and it needed to be gathered and planted in her immediately. He held it out to Anu with a magical smile. A small parcel carefully wrapped in an old yellow cloth bag. Anu flipped it around enjoying the fascinating mystery of an unopened parcel. What was inside? A stack of tubers? A pencil box? A rolled up picture story book? Eight-year old Anu could not stand the suspense of the puzzle. Her dad however was keen that she should like it. When it was unwrapped urgently, out came a small figure of a woman made out of dark wood. Its age alone seemed novel to Anu. It lacked the unsullied beauty of temple idols and the dumb smoothness of plastic dolls spat out by machines. It had a uniform rough texture that wasn’t abrasive. Its small body was ideal for an easy grip. Long folded arms, legs that stood on a pedestal, eyes that brimmed with sadness of living in its curves, frozen lips. “It’s even got a plait, Appa!”. Anu caressed it one by one with growing wonder. 


“Each atom contains its sculptor’s language of touch, echoes of the chisel”, said Appa as he pointed to fine lines etched along the elbow, legs and face. Having noticed her astonishment with satisfaction, he left to allow her to play alone with her new friend. 


In her small hands lay miniature wood chips, a small stove, a pot, a pan, a spatula, a pitcher and a ladle that mimicked her future kitchen. The array tired her. A shadow of sadness like the hum of a small train running on a circular track spreads across her heart. The language of parrots, myna, pigeons and bird puppets is constantly stirring the clouds. The plastic girls are too slim to bear the weight of her imagination. 


Amma is forever busy cooking, rinsing, washing clothes and sweeping. Once done, she anoints the baby sister’s tender hands and legs with oil before placing the baby face down on her legs to give her a bath. She dries the baby, warms her in sambrani smoke, swaddles her in a saree, holds her close to her chest and sits in a corner for a long time. 


“Amma, shall I rest my head on your lap?”


“Are you still a baby?”. With her pregnant belly coming right up to her chest, Amma is panting even as she speaks. Anu is weighed down by the inadequacy of love that her mother partakes with her. 


Appa leans on a mattress, and cradles baby sister on his raised and folded legs. He shakes the rattle and amuses her. He talks in baby language to her, babbling ‘nnggu, akku…’. 


And if Anu were to ask about “this king” or “in that story”, he would scold her saying, “what questions you have like a grown up, stop being a nag.”


“So, who am I? Am I a grown up or a little girl, you tell me” Anu's questions to the wooden doll would be met with silent stares. 


“Who do I have? I’m all alone.”, Anu’s entreaties would be listened to attentively. When she rubbed a dried gourd on the ground, and placed the scorching kernel on its cheek, the doll would grimace, saying “oh, it stings!”. Anu’s belief that if you hull the black husk of a tamarind seed without damaging its inner brown skin and placed it on top, even your wildest dreams would come true, found a ‘yes man’ in the doll. It became the student in the school that Anu managed, the baby in her cradle, at times her mother, and a dream angel who remained at Anu’s side all the time. 


When the wooden doll would narrate new stories to her, its eyes would emit a blue light. Stories that the doll knew from when it was the heart of a tree, delightful stories that were kissed by the scent of the tree, rainbow stories that spread under rain drops…every day, she slept in the lap of a different story. 


The years melted her and cast her anew. Long, shimmering arms, rolling shoulders, pliant, folding waist, and once whilst having a bath, when her fingers brushed against her budding breasts for the first time, she ran terrified to the wooden doll and confessed to it. In turn, the doll showed her its own cone-shaped breasts. 


Amma was worried when she locked herself alone behind bathroom doors. “Let me wash your hair”, she would say. 


“No need”, says Anu moving away. Amma is mystified at the burgeoning, billowing screens between the two of them which only multiply each time she tries to progress by pushing them aside. She longed to run her hands along the shape of her daughter visible behind a thin but permanent screen. 


At nights when everyone was asleep, Amma would sit on a corner of Anu’s bed.  Amma’s wakefulness would penetrate Anu’s sleep and rankle her. Amma’s palms would seek something as she gently patted Anu’s body. If she were to wake up and ask, “What is it, Amma?”, she would murmur “nothing”, and turn to lie with her back to her. Anu would sense eyes and questions pouring at her from her mother’s back. 


These days it is Amma who straightens her top as she leaves for school. And if she were to be late by even ten minutes returning home, Amma would wait for her at the door anxiously. Wherever she went. Amma’s eyes guard her with warmth and tenderness. 


Anu marvels at how the wooden doll dulls and shines in sync with her own fatigue and joy. She notes how the wooden doll trembles with excitement and terror in the same way she does. She senses herself being bound by an invisible filament to the wooden doll. Its open body and eyes that shine beyond the lines, the space created by the hip and the folded arms, and lips that part as if to absorb everything in. Anu’s world would slip, slide and shrink within it. 

 

Other little girls invite Anu to play and then turn away making a face. As lights from television shows that ended a long time ago, wriggled and danced on the living room floor, as darkness seeped into the night, as the window doors waved about in the wind, Anu lies curled up in a corner of the cot. From the desk, the wooden doll’s eyes weave a gentle web that cradles her. Its breasts have crumbled and in its place the chest has grown a dense carpet of hair. The shapely waist straightens, the body thickens to a manly figure with a swirling moustache which is both strange and somehow attractive. Slowly it moved close to her bed. Its long shadow stretched over the bed and consumed Anu. As its dark veins spread across the entire mattress, they formed into new, new shapes; piece by piece. 


Its hands were those of a prince who gathered princesses and hoisted them on horsebacks in fairy tales. Its legs were of a lover who chased his paramour in the movies. Lips were those that kissed the cheeks of a drowsy woman on television. Its blinking eyes were those that flashed at her in crowded street corners, snapping her emotions. With a gentle likeness to her mother, and the fierce attractive movements of her father, as all the pieces of the silhouette spilled and coalesced, a rare rhythm of a man melted together. 


She’d never set eyes on him and yet he was always moving within her and how strange that she could see herself being penetrated like this! There was a blossoming cool delight to see him dominate the intimate corners that were only known to her. That night stretched uninterrupted, undisturbed even by the urgency of the morning.


Anu loved her body like never before. Her days floated from hiding secrets of the dreams. Once school was over, the wooden doll wound bound over and scoop her up; “why so late?”, it would ask with a long face; lengthy secret canoodling; kisses when Amma was not around; occupying her bed well before she got there. And if Amma were to try to snatch the wooden doll away from her from under the blanket, she would grip it tight even in her sleep. She delights in spending time burying herself in its wide hands, playing with the curly chest hair, laughing and tugging at the tips of moustache. She spins on the steps of passion. Without the will to move away but lacking the courage to dive deep, she dips her toes into the edges of desire. 


During Christmas holidays, when her aunt was visiting, Anu had gathered her skirt between legs, bent down to plant a pumpkin flower in a ball of cow dung in the kolam design in front of the house. “How you’ve grown, Anu!”, exclaimed her aunt as she scooped her in her arms. On the table were special dishes, served with care and attention by Amma. When aunt asked if Anu could go back with her for the holidays, Amma’s face broke into beads of terrified sweat. “Aiyo sister-in-law, would we eat her alive? And what’s wrong if she does come of age at our house? Do we have any other kids? Send her with me for once”, said her aunt, pulling Anu close to her with affection. 


Anu was baffled when she saw her mother in agony, as if one of her limbs were being amputated. As she was about to place the wooden doll in a suitcase packed with the rest of her clothes, her aunt said ‘there’s plenty of dolls there’ and snatched it and cast it aside. Anu felt sorry about it. But she found the trip pleasurable. Plenty of trees, joyous wind, leaning blue mountains. Everything was brand new. 


When Anu’s uncle saw her in the dark green skirt Amma had compelled her to wear, he was also surprised at how much Anu had grown. From the second her uncle saw her, Anu squirmed as she sensed something leaping from him towards her. It writhed under her uncle’s stagnating gaze below her neck as he asked her, “Which class are you in? Eighth? Ninth?”, but didn’t listen to her response. It wriggled in the heat of his breath as he coddled her saying “How you’ve grown! Are you the same little girl with a runny nose in a little dress?” and tugged at her waist while she kept pulling away. It seeped from the palms of his hands as they patted her and searched up and down asking “Is your shirt tight here?”. Anu extracted herself from her uncle's hands and ran. 


Aunt however was affectionate. She kept offering her food and practically fed her with thickly sweet jaggery appam, semolina paniyaaram and lentil fritters soaked in sweet milk. “Shall we plait your beautiful thick hair into a thousand legged braid?”. Once plaited, she threaded pichchi flower buds from the back garden on a needle, sewed them into a braid, turned her to stand in front of a long mirror and handed her a small mirror. “Look Anu, see if it’s good!”


The pages of love that had been hidden with Amma tumbled open with her aunt. Anu would forever cling to her aunt, curling up close to her at night near a corner of a wall, trying to fall asleep while keeping an eye on her saree edge. But in an instant the man would erase the entire distance between them as he set out for her from within the wooden doll. He would introduce himself in the narrow gap between aunt and herself settling down gracefully. He would churn and stir in her muscles and nerves as she slept. Their uninterrupted trance and everything else is ripped by the sudden entrance of alien eyes. Anu startles awake. She feels as if she desperately wants to go to the toilet. Open the back door, past the coconut trees, coral jasmine and henna plants, in the cold darkness…aiyo, it is scary. Should she wake up her aunt? Tcha, poor aunt. Dull, tired, and deep asleep. Her nosepin would glint with the rise and fall of her breath. In the jagged ends of hair by the edge of her ears, in the sprouted sweat beads on her cheek, the hidden child inside of her aunt is visible. Somehow she would go back to sleep. No, she is unable to hold. Her bladder stabs on her lower abdomen. 


Rising slowly without waking her aunt up, without letting her anklet roar, walking like a cat, banging against the dinner table but managing somehow, she feels around for the switch in the dark and turns it on. In the gentle silence, the tiny sound of keys turning in the door lock explodes loudly. Her aunt rolling over can be heard. ‘Would it be too dark?’. Scared and trembling, she removes the lower latch loudly and opens the door to be greeted by the blinking cheer of bright stars. Yellow light from the electric lamp wriggles little nails on the ground. Very beautifully, without causing fear. She is able to laugh now thinking about her fears. Billowing skirt in the wind. The fragrance of pichchi flower. The raw scent of plants. The heady pleasance of henna flowers, the low swinging string of stars. The infantile light of the moon. Even the screech of the toilet door is sweet. 


The body is supple once freed of urine. It is tempting to sit by the henna bush. Aiyo, but aunt would search for her. As she returned, Anu realised that she was not on her own. She prickled under the swarm of a hundred eyes. When she began running reflexively, she collided with something, hard hands held her tight, the same hot breath of the morning. ‘Chee, no; was she possessed or something?’ Her face is held against a dark chest with thick, grey hair. Pouring kisses - on the cheeks, on the lips, on the neck, groping fingers that seek something that has not sprouted or even taken root within her, but end up crushing and destroying it. 


She wailed when her small breasts were squeezed. With the wordless shriek her aunt was woken up. When Anu’s body was laid on a bed of dried leaves, she plunged to the depths of consciousness. Her uncle’s body pressed heavily against hers. As her aunt came rushing, her uncle quickly got away. Her aunt shaking her asks, “Anu, what happened, Anu!” but there was no sign of life in her. “Looks like she fell down when she went to the toilet”. Uncle manages an explanation. Silently, her aunt embraces her, carries her and lays her down on a bed. 


Consciousness tumbles in waves of semi-stupor. Is it this? Is it that? Like this? No, usually faces come next to each other, then suddenly a flower and another dance close together, new birds will fly in the sky. Blue skies and verdant fields meet in a close embrace, the sweet sounds of flute spreads in all directions, isn’t that how it’s shown in that song? Oh, if it had been that way, would she have liked this better? Would you like a different approach then? No. What, this uncle? Greying along the ears. Stench of cigarette in his mouth. A gnawing decrepit lust in the tight grip of frail shoulders. Chest feels acrid. Body scorches. Chest smolders in pain. Eyes burn. 


“Aiyo Anu, the skin is hot. Please at least have this tablet”, sobs her aunt covering her mouth with her saree . She runs to uncle’s room and shouts something angrily. 

‘Can I not be myself anymore? Uncle’s touch is not like my father’s. It must be at least a thousand years since Appa even touched me! Is he the first man for me? What else has been destroyed when his body collided into mine and crushed me? Can the images that have been scorched by the flames of coercion and have drooped ever be reclaimed? What had uncle squeezed and discarded out of me? Something has happened to me. What have I lost?’ Sleep falls on her eyelids like a wet gunny sack. 


Faded sounds in the morning. The click of a lighter in the kitchen, the whistle of a milk cooker, the sound of milk being frothed in a tumbler. “Drink this coffee, Anu”, says her aunt to Anu who lies awake. “Don’t want it, I want to go to Amma now”

Anu paid no mind to her aunt’s pleadings. Her uncle folds the newspaper and comes next to her. Unconcealable guilt is etched on his face, hideously. 


“Shall Uncle buy you a new frock?”. Anu pushes away the hand that touched her shoulder immediately. As aunt’s frowns, uncle moves away. How long does the journey stretch? How slowly do the wheels churn? Her aunt’s silence breaks her heart. She appears as a worn out version of Amma. ‘Amma, Amma! What do I tell you? How do I tell you about this?’


“What happened? Why have you returned so soon?”, asks Amma as she comes running with the baby on her hips. She lunges and embraces Anu with her sight. Aunt forces a smile as eyes weigh heavy. 


“Your daughter caught a fever from being away from you for just one day” she says but Amma’s eyes refuse to believe it and move to caress Anu, as if she were a porcelain object that had been dropped by mistake and then grabbed with alarm to check that it hadn’t cracked.


Anu runs inside without a word. Sorrow stains every direction of the house. An inhuman silence has scabbed over it. “Where’s my wooden doll?”, searches Anu. On top of the tv set in the living room, amongst the dolls in the kitchen, inside the baby’s cradle, but it is not to be found anywhere. ‘It would have scratched and broken. Crushed into a hundred pieces. Amma would have swept it, gathered it and thrown it away.’ Tears pooled in Anu’s eyes. When she collapsed on the bed crying, the wooden doll stood on the window sill. But it didn’t see her at all. Its sight was scattered elsewhere, across everything but her. It clung to a corner seeking to avoid Anu’s touch. Her mind sobbed to think that she would never be able to reclaim their intimacy. Upon close inspection, the wooden doll had once again regained its shapely waist and a feminine body. Anu looked with disgust at its breasts which had started to sprout again. 



Monday, May 22, 2023

Amma Commits A Murder by Ambai

This was my entry to the Mozhi translation prize. It was longlisted and received excellent feedback from the jury including "it was a great attempt" and "a very strong contender in the contest".

You can read the original in Tamil by the incomparable Ambai here
--


At the mere mention of ‘Amma’ just a few events come flashing and strike at my heart. My older sister Kalyani used to swoon quite regularly. I was not at an age when I could understand. Four years old.  

I wake up early in the morning. I hear something like a thumping. I go near the door to have a look. Kalyani has been made to sit on a wooden plank. A strange man stands in front of her with a bunch of leaves in his hand. My baby brother of a few months who I made laugh with my ‘AAA’s and ‘OOO’s is now in a cradle in the room with me. 

“Neerajatchi, go get it”, says someone. 

I look at Amma. 

I remember the dark black saree. She’s knotted her hair loose. She enters the small room adjacent to mine. She removes her saree top. She slowly squeezes milk from her breast into a small bowl in her hand. Her eyes water. 

Every day Amma wakes up in the darkness of early morning to stack firewood under the buried metal pot to heat water. 

One day I watch her. Amma’s hair falls free from the knot. Amma sits squatting. Half her hair spreads out over her cheek and the rest of it over her ears. Once the stove is lit, the fire’s red heat flashes on one side of Amma’s face as she bends down to check on it. That day, Amma is wearing a red saree as well. As I am absorbed in her she stands up suddenly. Her hair hangs down to her knees. 

From within the saree top that’s fallen away, beneath the blouse whose hooks have come undone, her breasts, creased with green nerves appear. Standing there she seems like a daughter of fire who’s flown in from afar. Is she Amma? Is she really Amma?

Why do I remember the mantra “Kali, Kali, Maga Kali, Badrakali namosthuthey”?

“Amma”

Amma turns her head to look.

“What are you doing here, dee?”

I am unable to speak. I break into a sweat.

There’s a homam at home. Perhaps it’s the crimson of her lips, perhaps it’s the ferocity of the vermillion, I see her reflected in the roaring flames.

Agniyee swaa-aa-aa-aahaa…” , they elongate the ‘swaha’ as they pour ghee into the fire. With each ‘swahaaa’, my sight goes to the fire and then to Amma.

Amma rubs oil in my hair to give me a bath. She hitches her saree high and tucks it into her waist. Her fair, smooth thigh shows. When she bends and rises, I can see nerves threading through it. 

“Amma, why are you alone so fair? And why am I so dark?”

Laughter.

“Go dee, who has your beauty though?”

These occasions were totally unconnected. Amma was their sole queen. She was the fire that burnt and cleansed filth. With just a smile, she could make a festoon of a million smiles dance across the heart. 

Creator absolute. When I rest my head on her lap, she’d run her long, slim cool fingers over and say something so pedestrian as, “I will teach you to dance. You have an ideal body”, or “what thick hair”. Yet my heart will burst into bloom. 

I cannot recall if Amma fed me these feelings about her or if I imagined them myself. Just as many beautiful things took root within me, I do not know what she established within herself. 

I was thirteen at that time. Long skirts had started to grow short. Amma would lengthen every one of them. 

One evening when I was resting my head on her lap, I suddenly recalled a line I’d read somewhere. 

“Amma, what does adolescence mean, Amma?”

Silence.

A prolonged silence.

And suddenly she says,

“I suggest you stay just the way you are, letting your skirt sweep about, running around …” 

It seems cousin Radhu had a girl seeing ceremony. Amma went there. On that important day, Amma was not there. On Deepavali day, it was only Kalyani who rubbed oil and washed my hair. Skies which hadn’t yet shed their darkness could be seen from the bathroom window. 

“Kalloos…you’ve woken me up too early-dee, there’s no sound of firecrackers yet”

“Don’t I have to give you an oil bath and then have mine? You are thirteen. Still unable to have an oil bath yourself. Bend-dee

Kalyani has no patience. She rubs my head like she would peel husk from a coconut. 

Amma had sewn a satin long skirt in aubergine-flower purple for Deepavali. My heart was smitten as it slid down from the sewing machine as it was being sewn. On that occasion, Amma had taken my measurements before sewing the long skirt. 

“I need to measure you, come here-dee…you’ve grown tall”, she says looking up from measuring. 

“This girl has grown two inches”

The aubergine-flower purple long skirt is not short like other skirts. It glides down to reach the floor. 

Kalyani shakes me awake and dries my hair. I run into the altar room wearing my inner vest. Appa reaches into the pile of new clothes on the wooden plank to give me mine. 

“Here you go, darkie…”, says Appa typically. 

Sometimes when Appa calls me that, I stand in front of the wide, hanging mirror in the lounge. It was as if I could hear Amma whisper “How beautiful are you”.

Like the fish in the glass box in Sarala’s house, my skirt keeps slipping. Velvet blouse. I wear a pottu on my forehead and go stand in front of Appa. 

“Not bad!”, remarks Appa. 

I take the firecrackers to the front room and run to climb the magnolia tree. Every morning, I am tasked with plucking flowers from the magnolia tree. Fill the flower basket with flowers and take it to Amma and she’d remark wide eyed “what a loot of flowers” as she caressed them. Her fingers would disappear.  

The satin skirt slips. I am unable to climb the tip of the branch. It’s dark still. As I climb down, bang goes a firework in someone’s house. Shivering I jump down from the tree. Run straight into the house. Breathless. 

I calm down and run to the front room and burst my share of fireworks. That’s when I remember the flower basket. Dawn has broken. I lift my skirt and bend down to retrieve the flower basket lying at the bottom of the tree. Flowers have scattered. When I bend down properly to pick them, my skirt spreads on the ground. The new skirt is stained here and there. Is it from climbing the tree?

“Kalloos…”, I call out as I come in and stand in front of her to ask, “my skirt is all dirty. Will Amma scold me?”. Kalyani stares at me for a minute and leaves yelling “Appa”.

Everything from Kalyani’s look and her running inside without even taking the flower basket from me make feel like there’s a caterpillar squiggling inside my heart. I look at the satin skirt. I run my hand on the velvet blouse. Nothing has happened, has it?

Dear God, has anything happened to me? I ask myself. But even as I do that, I know that something has happened. I hear fireworks going off everywhere. Holding the flower basket in hand, I stand there breathing fast, my body shaking, my lips trembling. I want to cry out loud. 

I want to see Amma. I want to press my head deep against her chinnalam silk clad shoulder. “I am so scared”, I want to cry unabashedly. Amma will stroke my head. Something horrible has befallen me…

From somewhere, Kalyani has managed to get the tonsured old woman who makes fried snacks. The old woman comes close.

“Girl, why are you crying-dee? What has happened now? What has happened that’s not happened elsewhere?”

I understand nothing of what the old woman says. However, my instinct had a chilling understanding of something, but my head grasped nothing of it. From deep within my heart, like an unquenchable thirst erupts a single entreaty…” Amma…”

Once again, I recall the time when I got lost once when I was five years old.  In a big park without realising the deep darkness seeping around me, I walk. Suddenly the darkness, the trees, the sounds and the silence create fear within my heart. It was Appa who searched and found me. But it was when I saw Amma that I broke down howling. 

Amma lays me down next to her. She strokes me. “Nothing has happened. Everything is okay,” she whispers gently. With her ruby lips blazing like a flicker of fire, she rests her face on mine. 

Yet again, my heart hammers as if I am lost somewhere. I sit down, rest my head on my knees and cry. It feels like something has come to an end. Like walking out of the cinema after ‘The End’ card appears on screen, I feel I have left something behind. Right now, I sense that I’m the only one in the entire history of the world to have been beset with such a tragedy. I cry as if I am carrying all the misfortune on my slender, velvet blouse-clad shoulders.  

I wonder why Amma never told me about it on evenings when it was just the two of us. My heart is occupied by just fear. It is not the common fear that hits when in new circumstances, or with new people. It’s the frightful scream at the sight of a snake that renders one speechless in terror. Even in the far corners of my mind tendrils of fear hang like a spider’s web. 

As pale lips lie split open, I recall a figure. A skull smashes on a rock. A pale pink bald head walking ahead of me suddenly becomes a cave mouth from which splutters black-red blood. In an instant, blood pours over the head. I stare at the blood. Its red appears to have spread everywhere and it flows leaping into my eyes. My mind is agog again and again. “Aiyo so much blood, so much blood” but no sound originates from my mouth. A bed of blood. The old man opened his mouth, the eyes stared vacant, the heart burst forth. 

How fearsome is blood…lips go pale…limbs inert… 

I need Amma. My heart yearns for Amma to rescue me from this fear the way she embraces and consoles me when I’m scared of the dark. Couldn’t Amma be here to touch me on my shoulder with her cold fingers to say, “this is beautiful, too.”?   

“Get up-dee, please…how long will you cry-dee?”, pleads Kalyani as she joins me in tears. 

“Amma…”

“Amma herself is coming next week. I have just sent her a letter about it. She’ll be here once Radhu’s girl-seeing ceremony is over. You now get up-dee. You’re a right pain the head.” Kalyani is starting to get angry.

“What has happened to me-dee?”

“Your skull head has happened to you, how many times do I have to repeat?”

“Can I not climb trees again?”

Kalyani raps me sharply on the head with her knuckles. 

“You thicko! I’ve been pleading with you for the past half an hour to get up and get changed out of your skirt. You’re asking me questions on top? She’s being such a bother, Appa!”, says Kalyani calling out to Appa. 

Appa says, “You musn’t be silly. You must listen to Kalyani.”

The fried-snack-making tonsured old woman adds helpfully when Appa is out of earshot, “Why is she being difficult? This is a fate that befalls everyone”. 

Seven days. Seven more days until Amma returns. After Radhu’s girl seeing ceremony is over. Seven days of stumbling around in the dark. The maami5 from next door and the maami from across the street all land up one day. 

“Aren’t you making her wear a half-saree dee, Kalyani?”

“Everything will be after Amma returns, mami**. This one is an uncontrollable devil. It only listens to Amma.”

“From now on she will calm down. From now on she will be disciplined and obedient.”

“Why? What will happen from now on?”

Why should I wear a half-saree? Didn’t Amma say ‘stay just the way you are, letting your skirt sweep about…’? Why should I change? No one explains why.  

They sit me down like a doll and talk around me. When Appa appears, they whisper beneath their saree tops. 

On the fifth day, Kalyani hands me a bowl of hot oil saying “You rub the oil yourself.”

I weep as I struggle with my waist-length hair, then stand in front of the mirror in the lounge wearing my inner vest. 

“From now you should get dressed in the bathroom, understood?”, says Appa. 

I shut the door once Appa leaves. I remove my inner vest. The mirror reflects my dark body. I run my hands along shoulders, hands, chest, waist, smooth thighs which are only slightly less dark than my face. Am I not the same girl? What will Amma say?

I wear my school uniform. Kalyani enters once the door opens. 

“What will you say when they ask you why you’ve been absent-dee?”

I stare at Kalyani. Like a bird that had been freed I was getting ready for school joyfully, but now my pace falter. 

“You needn’t say anything. Just be quiet.”

I was unable to play at games lesson that day. I hide behind a wide tree. Once before I have abstained from playing. The next morning Miss Leela Menon asked in class, “who were the fools who didn’t play yesterday?”. I didn’t stand up. 

“Why did you not stand up?”, she asked. 

“I’m not a fool, Miss”, I replied. She noted that I was ‘impertinent’ in the progress report. 

That day my mind was not even afraid of being scolded by Miss Leela Menon. I sense that nothing could ever bother me more than what’s happened to me now. I no longer sit under the tree and read Enid Blyton like I used to. I ask the ripe leaves that have been falling in the dug-up ditch. “What the hell has happened to me?”

Like an accused in the dock watching the judge’s mouth, my heart awaits Amma’s word alone. Would she look at me with her eyes lowered and say, “this thing that has happened to you is also beautiful”? With just a scorching ember of her smile, she would cast aside that intimidating fried-snack old lady, Kalyani and all others. Amma is different. Where she stands, everything superfluous is destroyed and only beauty reigns. For her everything is beautiful. 

Amma feels very necessary. Something must be explained. Look, I break into a sweaty shiver at the mere thought of the aubergine-flower purple satin skirt. Why, my tongue thickens to a wooden block and falls flat in my mouth. It’s as if darkness envelops suddenly and before I know it, I hear a ringing sound, blood flows over and a stiffened body seems to appear in the darkness. Someone should explain this with gentle words to me. 

I feel as if there’s no one there. After the gardener wakes me up, I leave for home slowly. 

“Why are you so late-dee? Where have you been?”

“I didn’t go anywhere…was sitting under the tree”

“Alone?”

“Mm”

“Still think you’re a little girl-dee? What if something had happened?”

I fling the school bag. My face becomes hot. I shut my ears with my hands and scream out loud.  

“I will sit as I please. Nothing has happened to me”

I elongate and emphasise every single word as I scream with mad shriek. Appa and Kalyani stand dumbfounded. I get angry and go up to sit on the terrace. I can remain there in the scent of the magnolia tree. Kalyani and Appa are not allowed here. Just me and the scent of magnolia tree. This unspeaking, untouching scent seems closer to me than the people in the house. Wouldn’t it be nicer if they didn’t speak? A wide-eyed smile like Amma’s. 

When Amma looks (at me) like that something happens within me. I would want to laugh out loud. I would want to sing. Amma is a creator. With a mere turn of her head and a smile, she conjures joy, energy, and beauty into existence. 

Kalyani comes upstairs.

“Come for food-dee, your little Queenship, Amma has spoilt you by indulging in you.”

I purse my lips casually and rise. 

The next morning Amma arrives. Opening the taxi door, in a dark green creased saree, she enters the house. 

“What happened?”, asks Appa. 

“Apparently, she’s too dark to be a bride. He turned her down, the wretched fellow!”

“What does your sister say?”

“She feels bad, poor thing.” 

“We’ve also got a daughter who’s dark”

I stand in front of Amma without any preamble. I think I should explain it to her myself in more detail than Kalyani’s letter. Gently, in the crease of her neck, with trembling lips, in a soft voice I want to wail about it all. I am raring to share the fears that are slithering in my heart. 

Like some sort of a mystery - like a feeling that blocks the throat when you lie down at night, the struggle of not recognising my own body – I keep looking at Amma expecting her to explain it to me gently. She’s going to embrace me with the long banana stem of her hands. And I am going to cry loudly. I am going to bore my fingers into Amma’s hair and with big gasping wails, I am going to cry.    

Amma looks at me. I don’t know if I’ve become Radhu in her eyes. 

“Why did you have to rush into this misery-dee? We now have to bear this burden as well”

Who is she accusing?

Soundless wails blockade my heart. 

Amma’s lips, her nose, the vermillion on her forehead, her nose ring and her eyes appear to spit blood red flames. In the fire, the divine form that had cloaked her unravels and she appears naked as a human mother. Her heartless words rise like a sharpened knife and blindly hack away all the beauties that had sprouted earlier. Interminable fears cling to the heart like a black painting. 

Agniye swaa-aa-aahaa…it wasn’t just the filth that was burnt. Buds and flowers were scorched too.